Hindeloopen

By Isla Quinn

Tiny town. Large past. And a painted chest with flowers climbing the lid.

The town

Wikipedia places Hindeloopen in Friesland, in the municipality of Súdwest-Fryslân, with about 875 residents in 2017. It says the town received city rights in 1225 and joined the Hanseatic League in 1368. Maritime trade flourished in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, it says, generating wealth. The article lists captains’ houses with anchor emblems, narrow streets, wooden bridges and painted facades. It says the local language is a mixture of West Frisian, English, Danish and Norwegian, which it links to extensive seafaring contact.

A dialect that stayed itself

The Dutch heritage inventory says the Hylper dialect is distinctly different from standard Frisian, with typical rising diphthongs, and that it has remained relatively unchanged because of limited contact with surrounding Frisian areas. The two sources give different explanations for the dialect’s character, one pointing to overseas contact and the other to isolation from nearby villages. We are reporting both.

The painted wood

The heritage inventory describes Hindelooper painting as a technique for decorating furniture and everyday objects with flowers, leaves and curls. It says the paintwork originated between 1650 and 1790, a period when the town traded across the Baltic and with Amsterdam, and that the town declined economically in the late eighteenth century. It describes the usual grounds as reddish-brown, blue, white or green, with accents in ochre, white, blue and red.

Dress and trade

The same inventory says the traditional costume mixes Indian chintz with East-Indian coloured and checked fabrics, reflecting the town’s trade links. A regional tourism story says Hindelooper women crossed the Zuiderzee in the seventeenth century to meet men in Amsterdam, where they came across goods from the Dutch East India Company. It says women used decorated cotton fabrics in their costume and that these techniques continue to inspire contemporary designers. We have not found an independent source for how the cloth reached the town.

On the ice

The heritage inventory says Hindeloopen takes part in the Eleven Towns skating tradition and practises ice-sledge racing, with small barges propelled across frozen surfaces with poles. We have not checked when the last Eleven Towns race was held.

Preserving it

The Foundation for Preservation of Intangible Cultural Heritage Hindeloopen was founded in 2011, the inventory says, and the culture was added to the Netherlands’ intangible heritage inventory in September 2013. The foundation involves local workshops, museums and cultural organisations. The regional tourism story says Museum Hindeloopen shows costumes, painting techniques, interiors, fisheries history, merchant activities and the former port across several rooms. It also says a local studio runs short painting workshops. We have not checked opening times and are not naming any studio.

A living craft or a story about one?

Heritage listing exists to protect something that people still do. The inventory’s wording suggests the painting is still practised, but our sources do not say how many painters work in the town, and we have not found a count. We have no source that calls it a thriving industry, so we will not call it one. We would call it a heritage craft with a foundation and a museum behind it, and ask a seller who painted the piece in front of you.

Before you buy

We have not profiled any maker or shop in Hindeloopen, and we will not name one we cannot source. If a piece is called Hindelooper, ask what the ground colour and the accent colours are, who painted it, and whether it is a new piece or an old one. The colours named above are a starting point, not a test.

Roam first. Shop later.

Frisian makers can find out what’s involved at /sell-with-sephari/

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